Whole-House Repiping in Edmond. We use solid brass fittings, Uponor PEX-A, and surgical drywall cuts.
Replacing every water line in your house is the most invasive, stressful, and expensive project you will ever undertake as a homeowner. We aren't going to lie to you, downplay the disruption, or offer to "come take a look for free" just to get a salesman into your living room. A whole-house repipe requires opening your walls, running hundreds of feet of new line through your attic, and temporarily shutting off your water.
But when your original plumbing system is actively failing, spot repairs are no longer viable. Spot repair is a temporary bandage on a systemic failure. A full repipe is the only permanent way to protect your home from catastrophic water damage and restore your original water pressure.
We execute this process surgically. We use the highest-grade materials on the market. We pull the permits. We pressure test the system. And we tell you the exact scope of work and the hard cost upfront.
You can only patch a pinhole leak so many times before the math stops making sense.
Spot repairs make sense for an isolated incident. But when a mechanical system like polybutylene or thin-walled copper reaches the end of its material lifespan, spot-repairing is just throwing good money after bad.
We see the exact same pattern every single week in older Edmond and Oklahoma City subdivisions. You notice a damp spot on the ceiling or a warped baseboard in the hallway. We come out, cut a hole in the drywall, cut out the bad section of pipe, and silver-solder a patch onto a pitted copper line.
Two months later, another leak springs up three feet down the exact same line.
You pay for the emergency plumbing call. You pay to run fans and commercial dehumidifiers to prevent mold. You pay a drywall contractor to patch the ceiling, float the joint, and match the texture. Then you pay a painter to match the paint so it doesn't look like a patch job. By the time the third leak happens, you have spent thousands of dollars chasing a symptom.
Once the wall integrity of the pipe is compromised across the house, the only logical, financially sound step is to strip the old system out and start over.
The mechanical reality of Polybutylene, Galvanized Steel, and failing Copper.
Not all pipes fail for the same reason, but the end result—catastrophic water damage—is the same. We don't guess what's behind your walls. We inspect the exposed lines at the water heater, the manifold, and the exterior service entrance to determine exactly what material was installed by the original builder and exactly why it is failing now.
Polybutylene: The Chemical Time Bomb
If your home was built between 1978 and 1995, there is a high probability you have polybutylene pipes. This gray plastic pipe was hailed by builders as a miracle material because it was incredibly cheap and fast to install. But the chemical reality was a disaster, resulting in one of the largest class-action lawsuits in construction history.
The chlorine and chloramines used in municipal water supplies react violently over time with the polybutylene resin and the acetal plastic fittings. This breaks down the molecular structure of the plastic. The pipe becomes brittle, flakes away from the inside out, and develops micro-fractures. It looks perfectly fine on the outside until the moment it shatters. There is no repair for polybutylene. It must be completely extracted.
Galvanized Steel: The Pressure Choker
If you have a historic home in the core of OKC, Norman, or older parts of Edmond, you are likely dealing with galvanized steel lines. Over decades, the protective zinc coating wears away. The raw steel is exposed to the water, and it begins to rust internally, creating a scale buildup known as tuberculation.
A one-inch galvanized pipe slowly chokes down to the internal diameter of a pencil. The pipe is actively trapping calcium and manganese from the water, creating a rock-hard blockage. This is why your water pressure drops to a trickle when someone flushes a toilet, and why your water runs brown after a vacation. You cannot clear tuberculation. The pipe is effectively dead.
Type M Copper: The Victim of Pitting and Soil Conditions
In the 1990s and early 2000s, many Edmond builders used thin-walled Type M copper instead of thicker Type L to save money. Over time, the aggressive mineral content of Oklahoma's water, combined with the slightly acidic nature of our red clay soils, attacks this thin copper.
The minerals literally eat through the copper wall, a process known as galvanic corrosion or pitting. This creates microscopic pinhole leaks that spray a fine mist of water inside your wall cavities for weeks or months before you ever see the damage on the drywall.
Why we abandon the slab and route through the attic.
Jackhammering a concrete slab destroys flooring, risks hitting post-tension cables, and releases silica dust into your home's HVAC system. Instead, we cap off the failing lines under the slab and route a completely new, clean manifold system through your attic.
In Oklahoma, the vast majority of homes sit on concrete slab foundations. This means the original water lines were laid in the dirt, and the concrete foundation was poured directly over them.
When a line fails under the slab, some plumbers will recommend a direct slab leak repair—bringing a jackhammer into your living room. We strongly advise against this for aging systems. Worse, you are only fixing one section of pipe. The rest of the pipe under the slab is the exact same age, in the exact same soil, in the exact same condition. It will leak again.
We abandon the failing slab lines in place. We cap them off at the source. Then, we bring the new main line up the exterior wall, into the attic space, and build a new, clean distribution manifold. From the attic, we drop the new lines straight down through the interior wall cavities to your sinks, toilets, and showers.
This method protects your foundation, saves your flooring, and ensures that every single inch of your new plumbing is accessible for the lifetime of the home.
The PEX-A vs PEX-B Truth: We refuse to choke your water flow.
PEX-B fittings slide inside the pipe, severely restricting water flow. PEX-A pipe is expanded using a specialized tool to slide over a solid brass fitting, preserving 100% of your internal water diameter and pressure.
If you are going to invest the money into a whole-house repipe, the materials matter more than anything else. Many high-volume shops maximize their profit margins by using PEX-B pipe and plastic insert fittings secured with copper crimp rings. The fatal flaw with PEX-B is the insertion method. If you are running a standard 1/2-inch PEX-B line to a shower, the insert fitting chokes that flow down to roughly 3/8 of an inch.
If you have forty fittings in your house, your water pressure drops significantly because the flow is physically restricted forty times. Even worse, if the plumber's crimping tool is even slightly out of calibration, the ring can slip over time, causing a catastrophic blowout.
We exclusively run PEX-A (The Engel Method).
Instead of crimping the pipe down onto a fitting, we use a specialized Milwaukee expansion tool. The tool literally stretches the PEX-A tubing and the expansion ring. We then slide the expanded pipe over a solid brass Uponor ProPEX fitting.
Because of the thermal memory of PEX-A, the plastic instantly shrinks down onto the brass fitting with thousands of pounds of force. This creates an exponentially stronger, watertight seal that actually gets tighter and stronger as it ages. Because the pipe is expanded to fit over the fitting, the inside diameter remains consistent. You do not lose water pressure at the joints.
Sizing for Pressure: The Trunk-and-Branch System.
One of the most common complaints after hiring a cheap contractor for a repipe is a total loss of water pressure when multiple fixtures are running. This happens because the plumber used a "Home-Run" system with undersized 1/2-inch "spaghetti lines" running to every fixture to save money.
We engineer your system for maximum volume. We bring a full 1-inch or 3/4-inch main trunk line into the house and run it rigidly through the attic to act as the primary artery. We only reduce down to 1/2-inch lines for the final vertical drops to individual fixtures. This ensures that the volume of water is large enough to handle the washing machine filling up at the exact same time someone is taking a shower, without the pressure dropping.
Surgical Access. Solid Brass. Perfect Routing.
We don't use plastic crimp rings. We don't leave messy "spaghetti" pipe runs in your attic. We build rigid, code-compliant manifolds using premium Uponor PEX-A and solid brass fittings.
Polybutylene pulled from an Edmond home. Chlorine made the plastic chalky and brittle.
Uponor ProPEX solid brass fittings with expansion rings. No flow restriction.
A clean, trunk-and-branch PEX-A manifold routed through the attic. Fully accessible.
The 5-Day Surgical Repipe: What to expect when we cut your walls.
The number one fear homeowners have about repiping is the destruction of their house. We don't walk in with sledgehammers, and we don't leave your house looking like a war zone. We make precise, surgical cuts, and we follow a strict operational timeline.
- Day 1: Site Protection & Access. We lay down Ram Board or heavy drop cloths. We isolate work zones with plastic sheeting. We map out exactly where every drywall cut needs to be made and use vibrating multi-tools—not reciprocating saws—to make clean 12x12 cuts.
- Day 2: Main Line & Attic Trunk. We route the new main PEX-A line up the exterior wall into the attic. We build the rigid trunk line, securing it every 32 inches per code to prevent water hammer.
- Day 3: Vertical Drops & Fixtures. We drop the new 1/2-inch PEX-A branch lines down the wall cavities. We install new quarter-turn shutoff valves at every fixture. We secure lines with stud shoes and suspension clamps to prevent rattling.
- Day 4: Pressure Testing. Before a single drop of water enters the system, we pressurize the entire house to 100 PSI with air to verify the absolute integrity of every single expansion joint.
- Day 5: City Inspection. We pull required permits and coordinate the municipal inspection. We want the inspectors to see the craftsmanship. Once signed off, we clean up the site.
Straight Answers to Your Repiping Questions
The total cost of a repipe depends entirely on the square footage of your home, the number of wet groups (bathrooms, kitchens, laundry), and the complexity of the routing. A single-story 1,500 sq-ft home with an accessible attic costs significantly less than a two-story 3,500 sq-ft home with vaulted ceilings. We don't guess over the phone. We inspect your home and give you a hard, transparent number based on material and labor.
Full breakdown → what actually sets the number
Because the old pipes are secured to the studs inside your walls with straps or clamps to meet code. They cannot simply be pulled out like string. And if you have a slab foundation, your original pipes are buried under solid concrete. We must abandon the old pipe in place and create a completely new, clean pathway—typically through the attic.
Full breakdown → why the old holes can’t be reused
No, but we do have to make surgical cuts. We cannot run pipes through solid wood studs without access, and we have to access the valves behind your sinks and showers. We map out exactly where the 12-inch by 12-inch cuts need to be made before we start. We do not do the drywall patching ourselves, but we make clean, square cuts that your drywall contractor can easily replace.
Full breakdown → how little drywall actually comes out
PEX-B requires a plastic insert fitting that goes inside the pipe. A 1/2-inch PEX-B line is choked down to roughly 3/8-inch at every joint, killing your water pressure. PEX-A is expanded using a tool to fit over a solid brass fitting. The inside diameter stays exactly the same, preserving 100% of your water volume and pressure.
Full breakdown → the fitting that chokes the flow
We treat your home like a surgical site. Before we make a single cut, we lay down heavy drop cloths or Ram Board on your floors. We use plastic sheeting to isolate the work zones from your living spaces to control airborne dust. When we leave at the end of the day, we vacuum the site.
Full breakdown → our floor-protection protocol
A typical residential repipe takes 2 to 5 days. However, you will not be without water for the entire time. We schedule our work so that the water is turned off during the day, but we prioritize tying the system back together so your water is turned back on every evening for toilets, sinks, and showers.
Full breakdown → the day-by-day water schedule
For an existing home retrofit in Oklahoma, PEX-A is vastly superior. Copper is rigid, requiring massive drywall removal. It is also susceptible to pitting from our aggressive hard water and red clay soil. PEX-A is flexible, routing easily through attics and walls with minimal damage. PEX-A also expands up to 3 times its diameter if frozen, drastically reducing the chance of burst pipes in winter.
Full breakdown → the copper-vs-PEX verdict
From the Field Notes
What a Whole-House Repipe Costs in Oklahoma
There’s no flat price — the number’s built from your square footage, wet groups, access, and material.
Read itCopper vs. PEXCopper or PEX for a Repipe?
In a finished house, the drywall decides — PEX-A threads the attic where rigid copper opens a wall along every run.
Read itWhole-house repipeCan You Repipe a Whole House?
Yes, and your house stays standing — the new pipe routes overhead through the attic, so most of your drywall is never touched.
Read itRepipe or repairIs It Worth Repiping Your House?
One leak isn’t a dead system. When a whole-house repipe is actually worth it — and when it’s just a repair.
Read itPolybutylene pipesDo I Have to Replace My Polybutylene Pipes?
No code forces you to rip it out — but the failure record and your insurer might. How to spot PB2110.
Read it